山城街巷 寻味“江湖”

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01 在重庆呆了七年，在玄易风眼里，重庆是个不能用常规思维理解和相处的城市

4月8日，沙坪坝区三峡广场阳光正好。树荫下，一头金发的帕克（Parker）正弯着腰，和一群打四川长牌的老人相谈甚欢。

作为一个美国人，帕克有一个颇具玄幻武侠味的中国名字——玄易风，这源自于他对东方哲学的痴迷。这种痴迷，也驱使他7年前来到重庆大学博雅学院继续深造。

玄易风是老庄的“铁杆粉丝”，张口闭口就是“老子曰”“庄子曰”：“庄子讲‘物物而不物于物’，是他对‘自由’的解读，境界很高，几千年过去了，对于现代人同样受用。”

毕业后，他留在重庆，成了四川外国语大学的一名口语和翻译老师。

去年7月，他又有了一个新身份——重庆国际传播中心的外籍记者。三峡广场初见玄易风时，他正是在做一个有关老人业余休闲活动的街头采访。

On April 8, it was sunny in the Three Gorges Square in Shapingba District.

Under the tree, a blond-hair guy was leaning forward and chit-chatting with a bunch of seniors playing the Sichuan bridge. This guy is named Parker.

02 一头金发的帕克，在去年7月有了一个新身份——重庆国际传播中心的外籍记者

03 山城普通老百姓，都是采访对象

04 玄易风在三峡广场做一个有关老人业余休闲活动的街头采访

Though being an American, Parker has given himself a Chinese name "Xuan Yifeng", which is correlative of Chinese fantasy and martial arts. It is derived from his obsession with oriental philosophy.Seven years ago, driven by such an obsession, he came to the Liberal Arts College of Chongqing University for further study.

Xuan Yifeng is a "hardcore fan" of the Chuang-tzu. And he frequently quotes the Confucius and Chuang-tzu. For example,he interprets "liberal" by quoting Chuangtze's "To drive instead of driven by the material desire". He believes Chuang-tzu's conception is still applicable to modern people after thousands of years. ”

Since graduation, he has been based in Chongqing and become a professor of Sichuan International Studies University,teaching spoken English and translation.

Since July of last year, he has gained a new identity: Foreign journalist of Chongqing International Communication Center. So when we first met Xuan Yifeng at the Three Gorges Square, he was having a street interview on seniors entertainment.

05 三峡广场的雕塑让玄易风联想到他很喜欢的重庆美食

“江湖”中的家常味 Home Style in “Jiang Hu”

在重庆生活了7年，玄易风觉得重庆最大的魅力在于山城的“江湖”。

见我对“江湖”有疑问，玄易风笑着解释，说这个“江湖”，其实就是“生活”。很多生活在重庆的人之所以喜欢重庆，最重要的一点就是重庆的生活。

这当然也包括外国人。

说到“江湖”，玄易风首先就说到吃。他向我们回忆起重庆大学那段最美好的时光：下课后，他常常穿过重大校园的老房子，沿着一条小路到一个老居民区。这里有一对老夫妇开了一家餐馆，餐馆在一楼，里面空间很小，用餐都在屋外的院坝——一棵很高很粗的黄葛树下，摆上简陋的木桌子和小凳子，到了饭点，这里就陆续坐满附近的老人、小孩。

“虽说都是些普通的家常菜，比如说红烧肉、土豆丝、鱼香肉丝，但是味道很好。”玄易风很喜欢和这些当地居民挤在一张桌子上边吃饭边聊天，这让他感觉很“江湖”。在他看来，这家餐馆就像是生活在重庆的缩影，“闲适、安逸而且美好。”

于是我理解，玄易风口中的这个“江湖”，或许就是生活在重庆的家常味。

这个“江湖”很深，也很迷人，于是玄易风喜欢流连于旮旯小巷，寻找重庆家常美食，或者泡在交通茶馆，和老茶客摆一天闲龙门阵……去年春节，他还去江津区中山古镇赶了场长街宴，过了个“土味”十足的年，“狭长的古镇小路上，当地老百姓摆出千米长桌，宽条凳、碗碗菜，我和中山古镇的街坊邻里，还有游客们，在这里过了一个欢乐的春节。”

After living in Chongqing for seven years,Xuan Yifeng finds the best about the mountain city is "Jiang Hu".

Seeing my confusion, he explained with a smile, saying that "Jiang Hu" actually means life. A great many non-locals in Chongqing love this city for its life.

So do the foreigners.

06 树荫下，玄易风和一群打四川长牌的老人相谈甚欢

To further explain "Jiang Hu", Xuan Yifeng first mentioned about the food.He conjured up his favorite memories at Chongqing University: after school, he usually ambled through the time-honored campus and along a small pass toward an old residence. Here is a diner run by an old couple. It is on the ground floor and a bit narrow inside. So the diners have to eat in the front yard under a tall strong banyan tree. At the mealtime, seniors and children from the neighborhood will gradually occupy all the makeshift wood tables and stools.

"Though they sell some common home style dishes, such as braised pork, stirfried shredded potato and shredded port with garlic sauce, they taste really good. " Xuan Yifeng enjoys eating and chatting with local residents together because it makes him feel"Jiang Hu". In his view, this small diner is an epitome of the life in Chongqing, which is relaxing, carefree and wonderful.

Therefore, from my perspective, Xuan Xifeng's so-called "Jiang Hu" is perhaps the home style of life in Chongqing.

This "Jiang Hu" is meaningful and intoxicating. That's why Xuan Yifeng prefers to seek home style delicacy in Chongqing's inconspicuous corners or lingers at the old tea house to strike up a conversation with customers. At last Spring Festival, he went for the banquet at the street at Zhongshan Old Town in Jiangjin District. It is a timehonored custom of the Hani ethnic group,a kind of earthy celebration of the Chinese New Year. Along the long narrow street of the old town, local folks laid out tables of a thousand meters on which dishes of all kind were served. So he spent a happy Chinese New Year there with local residents and other visitors. ”

“野性”里的烟火味 “Wildness” in Daily Life

在玄易风眼里，重庆还是个不能用常规思维去理解和相处的城市，当你觉得熟悉之后，总会有新的发现在等着你，这其中，有一点儿不按常理出牌的味道，就是“野性”。

和“江湖”一样，玄易风口中所说的“野性”，也得从他“吃”的经历来解释。

玄易风说，南坪有一家叫“莽子牛肉”的餐馆，主营牛肉火锅，火锅店主尽管个头不大，但特别强势，尤其是嗓门。

09 在重庆生活了7年之久，玄易风觉得重庆最大的魅力在于山城的“生活味”

“这还不算啥，顾客想在这里吃饭还得满足各种条件。”玄易风接着说，“吃饭必须要四个人；周末白天不营业，晚上才开门；如果客人要加牛肉，必须吃完再点；用餐时不能高声喧哗。”

“在这家餐馆吃饭，人们只能悄悄喝酒划拳。”玄易风一手遮住半边脸，一手比划着划拳的动作，“不过，尽管餐馆地方小，老板规矩多，但去的人还是很多，因为好吃。”

“在我看来，‘野性’正是重庆这座城市的性格之一。它并非贬义词，而是市井生活里的烟火味。”玄易风向我们解释。

不管是吃饭有很多规矩的野性，还是围坐在小方桌旁家长里短的随性，在玄易风眼里，都是重庆生活的味道。他也希望好好利用作为记者的便利，把他所热爱的这重庆味道传递给更多人，为此，他用手中的镜头记录了一段段山城老百姓生活的影像，也去采访各行各业的人。

今年1月，玄易风采访了嘻哈歌手GAI，GAI有一句话让玄易风感同身受，“GAI对我说，只要你踏上这座城市，就会感受到这座城市对你的热情，生活处处都是美丽。GAI虽说不是土生土长的重庆人，但他在重庆找到了归属感。他和重庆这座城市一样，直接、霸道，他大部分的歌词也源于这座城市。”

“重庆是一座包容性很强的城市，不论你是哪种身份，大家都能玩到一起，大家都是重庆人。”玄易风说。

Xuan Yifeng sees Chongqing as a city that you cannot judge or understand with normal standards. The instant you think you know much about it, you will always discover something new. It never plays by the rules, so that is the "wildness" about it.

Same as "Jiang Hu", Xuan Yifeng explained the "wildness" also with his experience of "eating".

He said, there is a diner named "Mangzi Beef" at Nanping, specializing in hot pot.The owner is a small man but with a big temper, especially a big voice.

10 在玄易风看来，“野性”正是重庆这座城市的性格，正如辣椒一样热火朝天

"That's not enough. The customer has to follow his rules in order to eat. " Xuan Yifeng continued, "you must eat in a group of four;at weekends, the diner is closed in daytime and open only at night; diners have to empty their plates so as to refill the beef; and no one shall talk aloud when having meal. ”

"So people have to drink and play finger-guessing game quietly at the diner." Xuan Yifeng covered his mouth with one hand and gestured with the other to play finger-guessing game, "But, though it is a small diner with many rules, it is always crowded with diners for the tasty food. ”

"In my view, 'wildness' is a character of Chongqing. I mean nothing negative, just the daily life in the hustle-bustle of the city. ",explained Xuan Yifeng.

In Xuan Yifeng's eyes, the wild various dining rules and the casual small talks around a family table are all part of Chongqing's life.He also hoped to make full of his identity as a journalist to help more people get to know Chongqing. Thus, he recorded the daily life of the mountain city with his camera and had interviews with people of all kinds.

In January of this year, Xuan Yifeng interviewed GAI, a hip-hop singer. He felt deeply affected by GAI's words, "as soon as you come to the city, you will feel the warmth of it and life is wonderful here in every corner." GAI is not a native Chongqinger, but he finds a sense of belonging here. His temperament is like the city, direct and potent. And his lyrics are basically inspired by the city. ”

"Chongqing is an inclusive city. No matter who or what you are, people treat you the same as the natives", said Xuan Yifeng.