凡间天堂

赵凡

Mount Pleasant Cemetery， Toronto

If you're not used to seeing cemeteries filled with baby strollers and joggers， brace yourself before visiting Mount Pleasant. It's best to regard it as a public park that happens to have a lot of permanent residents. I'd love to say that locals' enthusiasm for the place is part of my hometown's Victorian tradition—back in 1876， when this cemetery opened， having family picnics at gravesites was considered normal behavior. But it's also true that when you see Mount Pleasant's rolling green hills， botanical gardens， leafy trees， and elegant fountains， you know that it's the cemetery's incredible beauty that draws people in. There are grand mausoleums1） here， belonging to families like the Eatons2） and the Masseys3）， and famous graves， such as pianist Glenn Gould's resting place， but the real reason to visit is to enjoy glorious green space in the middle of a frenetic4） city. Open daily from dawn to dusk.

多伦多的欢喜山墓园

如果你还不习惯看到墓园里满是婴儿推车和慢跑的人群，那么在游览欢喜山之前你一定要做好思想准备。最好是把这里当成一个碰巧有许多永久定居于此的居民的公园。我想说的是，本地居民对这个地方的热情是我的家乡自维多利亚时代以来的一部分传统——回到墓园开放的1876年，人们认为在墓地举行家庭野餐是很正常的事情。但这也是真的：当你看到墓园里连绵起伏的青山、植物园、枝繁叶茂的树木和那些美丽的喷泉，你就会明白是欢喜山墓园那难以置信的美吸引着人们前来游玩。这里有属于像伊顿和马西这样的家族的宏伟陵墓群，也有一些名人的墓地，比如钢琴家格伦·古尔德就安息于此。但是想享受这片处于闹市中的壮丽的绿色空间才是人们来此游玩的真正原因。该墓园每日凌晨至傍晚开放。

Green-Wood Cemetery，

New York City

Close your eyes and imagine 478 acres of rolling hills， complete with several ponds， a lake， a glorious view of the Statue of Liberty and thousands of historic monuments. Throw in a chapel that's modeled on Thomas Tower at Oxford's Christ Church College， and you've got Brooklyn's spectacular Green-Wood. This 1838 cemetery boasts National Historic Landmark status， in part because it's where the Battle of Long Island5） was fought in 1776. But it's just as significant to bird-watchers， and it's a member of the Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary System. Green-Wood offers a variety of ticketed tours that take you around its expansive grounds by trolley6） or into its catacombs7） by flashlight. Open daily to visitors.

纽约市的绿荫公墓

闭上眼睛，想象一下478公顷的连绵群山，连同几方池塘，一潭湖泊，还有自由女神像和上千座历史纪念碑的壮丽景色，再往这里面放上一座教堂，就是仿照位于伦敦基督教会大学的托马斯塔建造的那种，你就能看到布鲁克林宏伟壮观的绿荫公墓。这座1838年建造的墓园一直标榜其有着国家历史地标的地位，部分是因为这里是1776年长岛战役的发生地。不过这里对于野鸟观察者来说同样意义重大，该墓园是奥杜邦合作保护区体系（编注：全球最大的环保团体之一奥杜邦学会的一个环保项目）的成员。绿荫公墓提供各种需要购票的观光线路，你可以乘坐有轨电车游览这里广阔的景区，或者打着手电筒探索地下墓穴。该墓园每日向游客开放。

Granary Burying Ground， Boston

A sign at the entrance to the Granary Burying Ground claims that "Famous， infamous and unknown Bostonians are buried here". This small cemetery on Tremont Street， founded in 1660， holds many Revolutionary War heroes， including John Hancock8） and Samuel Adams9）. One of the grandest monuments belongs to Benjamin Franklin's family （though Ben himself rests in Philadelphia）. One of the more infamous residents is Samuel Sewall， a magistrate10） who presided over11） the Salem witch trials12）.endprint

Almost every headstone is eye-catching in its own right13）， with elaborate carvings of skeletons sporting scythes14）， winged skulls， sly-looking cherubs15）， and other symbols of mourning， as well as poetic epitaphs16）. The towering Egyptian Revival gate that marks the entryway is a work of art in its own right. Open daily， the Granary Burying Ground has excellent signage17） to point out the most famous—and infamous—graves.

波士顿的谷仓墓地

谷仓墓地入口处的一个牌子上写着：“声名显赫的、臭名昭著的、默默无名的波士顿人都埋葬在这里”。这座位于特莱蒙街上的小型墓园于1660年建成，许多美国独立战争时期的英雄在这里安眠，包括约翰·汉考克和塞缪尔·亚当斯。其中最宏伟的墓碑中就有一座属于本杰明·富兰克林家族（尽管本杰明本人安息在费城）。这里比较臭名昭著的“居民”之一是塞缪尔·西沃，一个负责一系列塞勒姆女巫审判案的法官。

几乎每一块墓碑本身就十分引人注目，上面精心雕刻着配有镰刀的骷髅、带翅膀的头、相貌狡黠的小天使和其他象征哀悼的符号，也刻着富有诗意的墓志铭。高耸的埃及复兴时期风格的大门本身就是一件艺术品，标志着墓园的入口。每日开放的谷仓墓地有精准的指示牌，为游客指明最声名显赫以及最臭名昭著者的墓地所在。

Highgate Cemetery， London

Situated on 37 acres in North London， Highgate is as almost much a nature reserve as it is a historic resting place. Wild as a classic English garden， it features trees， shrubs， and flowers growing without human intervention， and they provide cover to Highgate's many living inhabitants， which include foxes. In the midst of all this greenery are magnificent stone monuments， some dating back to 1839 and so covered in ivy that the grounds can resemble the land that time forgot. But with famous people such as George Eliot and Karl Marx interred18） here， it isn't likely that anyone will ever pass it by. Highgate is divided into East and West cemeteries， with the latter only available for viewing by tour （buy tickets in advance through the website）. East Highgate charges an admission fee， but you can explore it on your own.

伦敦的海格特公墓

海格特公墓位于伦敦北部，占地37公顷，是历史上重要的安息之所，几乎也是一个自然保护区。这里如经典的英式花园一样处于野生状态，特点是树木、灌木和花草的生长都没有人类的干涉，这些草木为海格特公墓内包括狐狸在内的许多有生命的栖息者提供安身之处。在这里所有的青葱草木之中则有许多庄严的石碑，有些可以追溯到1839年，它们上面覆满了常春藤，让一块块墓地就像这一片被时间遗忘的土地一样。不过由于这里埋葬着像乔治·艾略特和卡尔·马克思这样的名人，似乎谁都不会错过这里了。海格特分为东西两个墓区，后者只能通过跟团参观（提前在网上购票）。东区收取门票费，但你可以自行探索。

La Recoleta， Buenos Aires

In Argentina's capital city， Recoleta is considered a chief attraction. Walled off from the tony19） neighborhood it inhabits， it's effectively a city-within-the-city， founded in 1822 and filled with elaborately carved tombs and fine Italian statuary. The most popular spot is the Duarte family tomb， which is where the country's most famous first lady， Eva Perón20）， is buried （The Duartes are her father's family）. Even if the names of famous Argentine families aren't familiar to foreign visitors， their extravagant memorials leave a lasting impression. Free tours are available in a variety of languages， and visitors are welcome to explore on their own.endprint

Cementerio General， Santiago

Chile and Argentina have always been great rivals， so perhaps it shouldn't be a surprise that Santiago has a cemetery that aims to be even more spectacular than Buenos Aires'. Spread over 210 acres， and divided into elegant streets and boulevards， the Cementerio General has massive tombs designed to resemble Mayan temples， Venetian palazzos21） and other grand structures —they're so huge， you might start to wonder whether any living family members could be inside， too. But the most fascinating part of the site is the Monument to the Disappeared， a large-scale memorial to those who vanished under Augusto Pinochet's brutal regime. Undoubtedly not by coincidence， the Pinochet family tomb is a stone's-throw away. （Augusto Pinochet died in 2006， but his family， fearing vandalism22）， didn't place his cremated remains at the family tomb.） Open daily to visitors.

布宜诺斯艾利斯的瑞科莱塔公墓

在阿根廷首都，瑞科莱塔公墓被人们视为一大游览胜地。瑞科莱塔公墓位于繁华地带，由一堵高墙将其和周边的繁华隔开，实际上是一座“城中城”。瑞科莱塔公墓建于1822年，里面满是精雕细刻的陵墓和精美的意式雕塑。最受欢迎的景点是杜阿尔特家族的陵墓，那里埋葬着这个国家最著名的第一夫人——伊娃·贝隆（杜阿尔特家族是她的娘家）。尽管外国游客并不熟悉阿根廷这些名门望族的名字，但是他们那奢华精致的纪念碑会让游客们印象深刻、长久难忘。这里有各种语言的免费导览，也欢迎游客自行探索。

圣地亚哥的圣何塞公墓

智利和阿根廷向来都是强劲的竞争对手，所以不足为奇，圣地亚哥也有一个公墓，而且明摆着就是想要比布宜诺斯艾利斯的那个公墓更壮观。圣何塞公墓绵延210公顷，划分出美丽的街道和林荫道，有很多仿照玛雅神庙、威尼斯宫殿和其他宏伟建筑设计的巨大陵墓。它们是如此庞大，你可能都开始怀疑那些在世的家族成员是否也有可能在里面。但是这个地方最吸引人的部分是“遇害者纪念碑”，这是为纪念那些在奥古斯托·皮诺切特（编注：前智利军事独裁首脑）残暴统治下死去的人们而建造的一个大型纪念碑。而皮诺切特家族的墓地距此仅一箭之遥也绝对不是巧合。（奥古斯托·皮诺切特死于2006年，但是他的家人因为害怕公众会故意破坏，没有将他的骨灰安置在家族的陵墓里。）该公墓每日向游人开放。endprint